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Which wine goes best with Asian cuisine, everything from Szechuan to Sushi? Consider Sake, that fermented rice beverage that in many ways is closer to beer than wine. The different grades of Sushi are based on how highly polished the rice is. The more of the outer coating that is milled away, the more premium the Sake is considered to be. And while inexpensive Sake can be served warm (heating helps to dissipate the impurities), premium Sake should be sipped lightly chilled like a fine white wine.
Here’s are a few recommendations to get you started:
Ichinokura Taru Junmai, $20.00
Pure rice, cedar flavored sake, the rich, creamy and refreshing aromas of Japanese cedar are harmonized with smooth flavors to enhance the taste. This is a well-balanced sake with a spicy taste and long finish. SMV: +2
Otokoyama Junmai, $22.50
Light and smouth, the quiet, grain-like aromas have a nice hint of fruit. Refreshingly light with vivid acidity, this very dry sake has an appealing sharpness, with a rich and full-bodied taste. SMV: +10
Harushika Junmai, $21.50
Offers aromas of preserved fruit and plum with an extremely dry palate, medium body and a perfect finish. Pairs very well with Japanese dishes. Barbecue chicken or pork are two good matches, as well. SMV: +12
SMV stands for Sake Meter Value or nihonshu-do. It is a measure of the specific gravity of a sake, or the ratio of the density of the sake in relation to the density of pure water. The more unfermented sugar in the sake the more dense it is. On the scale, 0 is considered neutral, negative numbers are sweeter, and the higher the positive number, the dryer the Sake.
but please don’t drink it that way!
In addition to the three sakes. we consider the Choya Umeshu, $13.49. Often called Plum Wine, ume are the same genus as their cousins, but a different species, and they have very different characteristics. Ume contains 4-5% acidity compared to 1-2% acidity in plums. As ume fruit ripens, citrus acid occupies a higher ratio than other organic acids. The fruit and skin of ume contains polyphenol and the fruit contains amino-acids. The flavors are intense, with bright fruit that starts out sweet, but is balanced by crisp acidity. The perfect choice for spicy dishes.
Our 2009 wines from Michel Magnien have just arrived. Michel Magnien owns 27 acres, including vineyards within the grand cru plots of Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Denis and Charmes-Chambertin, as well as premier cru sites and village parcels in Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny. Magnien sold a majority of his crop until 1992, when Domaine Michel Magnien began to bottle much of the family’s harvest. Soon after joining the family business, Frédéric encouraged his father to vinify his entire crop, starting with the 1994 vintage. While his son takes care of the cellar, Michel still works in the fields, pruning mercilessly and maintaining low yields. Fred proudly calls his father Michel “the finest vineyard worker I have.”
“The wines are always fresh and youthful when released, but they age very slowly and gracefully. Fred says his fathers wines always show young because of the work he does in the vineyard. All I know is that I have had older wines from 2001 back to 1978 and they have been superb in every case. We selected wines for price and quality, if you are interested in other vineyards we can get other wines including Grand Cru’s.” -Wine Shop Burgmeister Divit Cardoza
2009 Pinot Noir Grand Ordinaire, $22
This entry level Pinot Noir is made from estate fruit and is meant to be drunk in the first year or two. A soft, easy style of Pinot Noir.
2009 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, $28 (all estate fruit)
Tasting note: A discreet touch of wood sets off fresh and ripe red and blue pinot fruit aromas that are in keeping with the attractively vibrant, rich and round flavors that are at once delicious yet serious. A good Bourgogne. Score: 85-89, Burghound
2009 Gevrey Chambertin Seuvrees, $59
Tasting note: A slightly riper nose is the essence of a red pinot fruit liqueur nuanced with subtle earth and smoke aromas that precede very round and mouth coating middle weight flavors that brim with ample amounts of dry extract, all wrapped in a firm finish that mixes youthful austerity with a trace of natural sweetness. A high-quality villages that is worth considering.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011 Score: 89-91 Drink: 2017+
- Comments: Outstanding, Burghound
2009 Chambolle Musigny Fremieres, $59
Tasting note: As one would reasonably expect, this delivers a completely different aromatic profile of cool and airy high-toned raspberry and cranberry aromas that are very Chambolle in character as the limestone influence is quite prominent and it continues onto the detailed, refined and admirably pure flavors that possess a dusty and mouth coating finish that is both firm and mildly austere. This is a mineral-driven wine par excellence.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011 Score: 89-91 Drink: 2016+
- Comments: Outstanding, Burghound
2009 Morey St. Denis Chaffots, $89
-from a parcel that sits between Clos de La Roche and Clos St. Denis
Tasting note: A restrained and quite cool nose of spice and earth hints that add good breadth to the red pinot fruit that introduces rich and generous but well-focused middle weight plus flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration which helps to buffer the very firm finish. This is a relatively big wine and clearly built to age.
Tasted: Jan 01, 2011 Score: 90-92 Drink: 2021+
- Comments: Outstanding, Burghound
After a rewarding career as a water-rights attorney, Bill Ringert and wife, Bing, segued their shared passion for wine by developing a boutique Idaho winery, Cold Springs. Bill’s comprehensive geologic and hydrologic research led him to select ground on the eastern ledge of the Snake River Plain near Hammett. Spring water from the Lost River Aquifer emerges on the northern corner of the property and volcanic ash in the soil contributes to the high quality and unique character of the wine grapes grown on the estate.
Jamie Martin has been a mainstay of Idaho viticulture since 1980, when he and his family planted their first wine grapes in the Hagerman Valley. His first wine label, Rose Creek, produced internationally-acclaimed wines, laying the foundation for a nascent wine region. His work as a master winemaker has taken him to France, Jeruselum, and the Szechuan region of Western China. In 2002, he began working with Bill & Bing Ringert to develop the vineyards that would become Cold Springs Winery.
The science of wine is a weird science: part technical skill, part mythical alchemy. The soil that bears the vine is a composite of rock, weather, climate, and microrganism, bringing to bear notes and echoes, sense memories of a particular place and growing season. Moths pollinate the blossoms under cover of darkness. The fruit grows. Skins acquire an almanac of the elements—mineral, sun, rain and spring water that has traveled underground aquifers through ancient lava flows. When finally night cools and the fruit is full to bursting, it is time for crush. The concert of microbiology, zymology, and chronology, time itself lending a hand to the crafting of fine wine.
2008 Phren/ology Riesling, $9.49
Apricot and peach aromas lead to flavors of lightly sweet lime and passion fruit with a touch of mineral on the crisp finish. A great choice to pair with spicy Asian cuisine, especially red or yellow curry.
2008 Myth/ology Chardonnay, $9.99
Vanilla nuts on the nose. On the palate, butter and mineral come through up front, backed by melon and citrus fruit flavors with toasty spice on the finish.
Hot Rod Red, $9.99
Cold Springs Winery’s most popular wine has a fruit forward nose with ripe red fruit on the palate. This blend of Cab, Franc, Merlot and Syrah is a lovely ride.
This week we are featuring five wines from De Maison Selections. Founded by André Tamers in 1996, De Maison is an importing company that specializes in unique, high-quality, boutique wines from Spain and France.
Avinyo Cava Brut Reserva, $15.99
The Avinyó brand is produced by the Esteve Nadal family of Avinyonet del Penedès. The winery is located at their home “Can Fontanals” in the heart of the Penedès region of Barcelona. On the label of each bottle of Cava there is an inscription in Catalan representing the philosophy of the family. The inscription roughly translates into the following: “From the must of the flower (the free run juice) and with the rigor of a work well crafted.” The patriarch, Joan Esteve, planted vines of Parellada, Xarel-lo and Macabeo 50 years ago so that he could have sparkling wine for himself and his friends. Today, his two sons and daughter carry on the tradition of Avinyó. This lovely sparkling wine offers bright white fruits combined with toast notes. On the palate the wine is fresh and vibrant.
2010 Ameztoi Txakoli, $14.99
Founded in 1989, Getariako Txakolina region is comprised of 443 acres in the municipalities of Getaria, Zarauz and Aia. The majority of the grapes planted there are Hondarribi Zuri
and Hondarribi Beltza. The vineyard sites are greatly influenced by their proximity to the Atlantic Ocean. The soil is chalky with rich, organic material. Ameztoi Txakolina is one of the top producers of Getariako Txakolina. The winery owns 50 acres of vines in the best location. From the vineyards one can see the town of Donostia-San Sebastian and understand the influence of the Atlantic Ocean on this vineyard site. Ignacio Ameztoi is the seventh generation to carry on the tradition of making Txakolina in the province of Getaria. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and bottled with residual carbonic that gives the wine its natural spritz.
2009 Do Ferreiro Albarino, $22.00
Founded in 1973, Do Ferreiro is currently run by Gerardo Mendez. Gerardo owns 12.5 acres, 7.5 of which are over 50 years old, with 2.5 over 200 years old. The vineyards follow organic guidelines avoiding the use of pesticides and non-organic fertilizers. In addition, Gerardo is a fanatic of indigenous yeasts believing that through their usage the true qualities of his terruño appear. Gerardo farms 8 separate plots of Albariño all located in the sub zone of Salnes. This valley’s proximity to the ocean and protection by mountain ranges has gained it the reputation for being one of the best in the Rias Baixas. Each of the plots are separately fermented and aged on the lees for approximately six months. The blend of these plots is what makes up the Do Ferreiro Albariño. This 2009 offers complex aromas of salinity and exotic fruits with wet earth/herbal undertones. The palate is nicely textured with excellent acidity.
2008 Luberri Seis $15.99
Owned by Florentino Martinez Monje, Luberri is located in Elciego in the heart of Rioja Alavesa. Florentino farms 35 hectars of old vines located principally between the
villages of Elciego and La Guardia. A farmer at heart, Florentino was the original winemaker at Artadi before establishing his own winery in 1992. Florentino is hands-on at the winery, working on all aspects of production, but his true love is working in the vineyards. All the plots are farmed with minimal treatment of the soils and vines. Vineyard sites are separately fermented and vinified. By keeping yields low Florentino extracts grapes with great concentration and flavor. The Seis is 100 percent Tempranillo that is fermented in stainless steel, then spends six months in a mix of French and American oak. It is filled with bright cherry fruit surrounded by spices. Rich mouthfeel full of sweet round fruit and complementary spicy wood tones.
2008 Mencos Crianza $18.99
Conde De Hervias is a project by Iñigo Manso de Zuñiga Ugartechea. Iñigo owns prestigious plots of old vines in Rioja Alta surrounding his home in Torremontalvo. In 2010 Iñigo released a second label to compliment his flagship Conde de Hervías wine: Mencos. The philosophy behind this second label is to produce classic yet modern (not oxidized) style Riojas. Mencos comes from a beautiful parcel of vines aging an average 35 years on the south side of the Ebro River in Torremontalvo. This vineyard, with chalky clay over gravel, is well suited to the Tempranillo grape. The Crianza spends 12 months in neutral, old American oak barrels. There is a definite elegance to the wine, where spicy wood tones mingle with ripe elegant violet fruit. It’s a wine with good length in a classic yet modern framework.
For more years than we can remember Basque Country Imports has been the food leader in all things Spanish. From Jamon to Anchovies, Manchego to Olives BCI has imported them all. But for us, the emphasis has always been on wine. They bring it in directly from Spain, allowing them to offer the lowest prices possible. Here are five wines from their outstanding portfolio:
Zudugarai Txakoli
If you’ve had Vinho Verde then you have some idea what this lightly sparkling wine from Spain’s Basque Country is all about. Rated 91 points by Josh Raynolds in St
ephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar publication with the following description: “Light gold. Lime, talc and white flowers on the nose, plus a hint of white pepper. Racy, focused and pure, showing remarkable clarity to its citrus fruit and mineral flavors. What would liquid seashells taste like? Finishes with excellent persistence and resonating lime and mineral notes. This checks in at a mere10.5% alcohol.”
2009 Perla Maris Verdejo, $9.99
Very fruity and aromatic with good structure and a long pleasant finish in the mouth. Perla Maris translates as sea pearl, and as the name suggests, this wine goes well with most all types of fish and sea food.
2009 La Val Albariño, $13.49
Founded in 1985, Bodegas La Val has been a leader in the Rias Baixas region for almost three decades. Their Albariño is a definite bargain for the variety offering aromas of apple and fresh hay on a citrus background. The palate provides good acidity with lovely ripe peach balanced by crisper citrus.
2009 Santiago Ruiz, $19.49
Established in 1898 and located in the O Rosal sub-zone Riax Baixa, Santiago
Ruiz is housed in a historic building dating back to the end of the 17th century. The property is home to a winery museum as well as an original Galician kitchen. Wines are a blend of Albariño, Loureiro and Treixadura, and are marketed under the Santiago Ruiz brand, with its instantly recognizable label – a copy of the map that Señor Ruíz drew for his daughter’s wedding. It offers slightly exotic aromas of lime, kiwi and guava. The flavors are a nice combo of stone fruit and citrus with light touches of mineral and herb. This wine is at its best with food – melon and jamon, something fatty and sweet would work well.
Valdelana Rioja Joven Red, $8.99
The Valdelana family has been farming their land at Elciego in Rioja since the 16th century. The oldest information concerning the winery dates back to November 12th, 1583. This is the date on which, during the reign of Philip II, Elciego became independent of Laguardia. The king of Spain accepted their independence and received wine coming from the cellar of the villa in exchange. Currently the owner of the winery is Juan Jesus Valdelana. His Tempranillo is blended with 5 percent Viura, a white wine grape. Classified as a joven or young wine, it’s a style that emphasizes fresh fruit flavors. The Valdelana offers lots of sweet and spicy fruit on the nose with a touch of vanilla. Soft and round in the mouth, the palate is all supple cherry fruit. This is a definite bargain.