Boise Coop Wine Shop

A Trio from France

• April 29, 2010

Domaine d’Antugnac, La Closerie des Lys

In 1997, Domaine Antugnac was purchased by Christian Collovray and Jean-Luc Terrier. The two were childhood friends from the village of Davayé, and grew to become business partners of Domaine Des Deux Roches in the Mâconnais. Looking to expand, they focused on Languedoc where land prices were much better than in Burgundy. Antugnac quickly became the clear choice.

The domaine is roughly fifty miles west of Carcassonne in a lovely, isolated mountain valley hidden in the Pyrenean foothills, anchored by the old village of Antugnac (its church was built as a kind of bastide, or fortified building, to protect the villagers from marauding bands in the middle ages). The vineyard parcels start at the village but the majority climb the heights of the south-facing flanks, growing between 280 and 530 meters above sea level in meager limestone soils.
In 2000, the partners installed David Serodes as manager of the estate. It proved to be an inspired choice—Serodes understood at once that what this location offered was Languedoc’s southern exposures tempered strongly by mountain coolness. Wine from these mountain vines could achieve sunny ripeness coupled with distinct freshness. And in David’s hands, it does, at every level.

Beginning in 2002, the partners began planting new, high-density parcels on Antugnac’s hillsides. Today, the domaine farms 180 acres. The majority is planted in Chardonnay, but thirteen varieties are cultivated. Three ranges of wine are made including the base range of fresh wines labeled Closerie des Lys featured here.

2008 La Closerie des Lys Blanc, $9.99
Equal parts Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Vermentino.
2008 La Closerie des Lys Rouge, $9.99
Based on Syrah, with Cinsault and Grenache.

2009 Domaine de la Madone Beaujolais le Perréon, $14.99
This is a cru Beaujolais in everything but name—it is both the smart purchase of the appellation and the no-brainer collector for the vintage. The 2009 vintage is a stellar year for Beaujolais, and may well be for most of France—but here’s the first fruits to get your taste buds ready. The town of Le Perréon boasts extraordinary terroir, with pink granite soils that remind of cru Fleurie. The vineyards themselves are ridiculously steep and are some of the highest in the region (more than 1,500 feet above sea level). Completely tank made, to preserve every bit of fresh, aromatic and concentrated fruit from the family’s ancient (some more than 100 years old) vines. Aromas remind of a berry tart on the nose, an intoxicating blend of spices, blueberries and raspberries. The mouth is all supple and sweet, with endless waves of red and black fruits, good grip and freshness. What’s especially pleasing with “Le Perréon” in 2009 is its concentration—the complexity here is astounding and of a caliber to which many a Côte d’Or wine could only aspire. The smart buy in Beaujolais: a cru wine for a decidedly non-cru price.