Boise Coop Wine Shop

A Very Mixed Bag of Wines

• January 19, 2010

This week’s line-up features a global quintet of wines, one white from New Zealand and four reds, on from Argentina, one from Spain and two from California.

2008 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, $17.99

This New Zealand winery was founded in 1994 by Greg and Sue White and winemaker Simon Waghorn. For Greg and Sue, the move to Marlborough was a classic lifestyle change after careers spent in financial markets and marketing. For Simon, the motivation was the pursuit of quality winemaking within a company structure where he could share in the success of his efforts. Simon came to Whitehaven following a distinguished career as senior winemaker at Corban’s Gisborne winery. His continued success at Whitehaven has shown that with excellent fruit he will produce outstanding wines. Whitehaven sources fruit from 40 acres of its own vineyards and from 30 contracted growers located in carefully selected vineyard sites across Marlborough’s Wairau and Awatere valleys. Viticulturist Stephen Dempster joined the Company, in 2002 and his role’s major focus is working with Whitehaven’s growers to obtain the best possible quality fruit. This 2008 Sauvignon Blanc offers vibrant citrus and gooseberry aromas, with freshly cut herb undertones. It is a full flavored, medium bodied wine, with an abundance of archetypal currant and gooseberry flavors, that linger on the dry, clean finish.

2008 Alamos Malbec, $9.99

A wine of the Andes, Alamos is named for the poplar trees that line the high altitude vineyards of Mendoza and protect them from the mountain winds. The Andes are some of the highest mountains in the world. The create a cloud curtain that blocks storms from the Pacific Ocean, thereby creating Mendoza’s desert climate. High altitude means cooler nights for better acidity and synchronized ripeness of sugars and polyphenols. High altitude means more intense sunlight which enhances the aromatics of Malbec and creates thicker skins, leading to richer, more intense wines. The nose on this 2008 Malbec shows ripe black fruits, black pepper spice and floral notes. The mouthfeel is full yet soft and supple, with black raspberry and currant flavors mingled with notes of sweet spice and a touch of leather. The finish is long and persistent with soft, sweet tannins.

2004 Condado de Haza Ribera Del Duero Tint, $18.99

Spanish winemaking legend Alejandro Fernández of Pesquera fame discovered an abandoned hillside on the banks of the River Duero in the mid-1980s that seemed to bring together the ideal conditions to become one of the best vineyards of the region. It had a gentle southern-facing slope that ended at the river and different soils composed of gravel, clay and gypsum that promised to produce the nuances needed to create complex wines from Tempranillo grapes. Thus began an arduous three-year period of negotiations destined to purchase the small individual allotments that made up the hillside. The first 200 acres were finally planted in 1989. Today the property, which is named after the nearby town of Haza, has a continuous covering of almost 50 acres of excellent Tempranillo vines. The brilliant 2004 Condado de Haza offers up fragrant aromas of cedar, tobacco, black currants and blackberry. There is a supple mouth-feel and generous cherry and black fruit flavors and enough ripe tannins to ensure good longevity. Drink this hedonistic effort now and over the next 10-12 years.

2007 Cline Ancient Vine Mouvedre, $12.49

In the latter part of the 1800s, Oakley, Contra Costa County was a booming farming community with thousands of acres of orchards and healthy vineyards. Fred Cline’s maternal grandfather, Valeriano Jacuzzi of pump and spa fame, called this place home. On summer visits to his grandparents, Fred learned both the love of agricultural life and the mysteries of vinifying grapes into wine. These lessons led Fred to obtain a degree in Agriculture Management from U.C. Davis. In 1982, with an inheritance from his grandfather, Fred founded Cline Cellars near Oakley, California. Here, he preserved and restored many ancient vine sites to their rightful reign as premier California wine lands. In 1991, Fred and his wife Nancy relocated the winery from Oakley to the Carneros region of Sonoma County on a historic 350-acre estate with new vineyards and facilities. While much of the cool Carneros region is planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Merlot, Fred pioneered the planting of Rhône varietals including Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and of course, this Mouvedre. This 2007 is a big and intense wine, with minty bay leaf scents joining ripe, rich blackberry and wild berry flavors that are framed by gritty, minerally tannins and a dash of pepper. Great now, it should drink well over the next few years.

2004 Peju Merlot, $33.00

The love of farming and a passion for wine brought Anthony Peju and his wife Herta to the Napa Valley. A series of ideas—starting in his birthplace on the Caspian Sea, then France, England and eventually, Los Angeles—helped create their Napa Valley winery. In 1982, they purchased 30 acres of land with the magic ingredient - location. Neighboring vineyards at Rutherford included Robert Mondavi, Inglenook and Beaulieu. Situated between Highway 29 and the Napa River, the acreage included a 1900-era house and rambling vineyards, some 60 or more years old. Looking to the future, Tony and Herta have introduced their two daughters, Lisa and Ariana, to the workings of the wine business. Both of the young women are immersing themselves in all aspects of Peju Province Winery. Grapes for this 2004 Merlot came from the Persephone estate vineyard with extremely low yields averaging just 2.9 tons per acre. The result is a richly flavored wine with bright fruit aromatics, a full, rich mouth feel and a nice, long finish.